1. Remove engine

 

2. Remove Torque Converter

 

3. Remove the 5 bolts securing the Low Pressure Valve and detach it

 

4. Behind the Low Pressure Valve is the Input Gear Self-locking nut. You can remove it either by using a breaker bar and tool 18G 1088, or by using a 1/2" drive air gun. If you are like me then you would go the easy route and use the air gun.

 

5. Fit tape or foil over the splines of the converter output gear to protect the converter housing oil seal as the housing is removed. This will be unnecessary if the seal is to be renewed anyway. A proper protector sleeve is available as a special tool, but the makeshift solution above will do the same job if a bit of care is used.

 

6. Remove the nuts and bolts securing the converter housing to the engine and transmission unit.

 

7. Partially withdraw the housing, then disconnect the converter oil feed pipe from the housing.
Note: To dislodge the housing from the transmission you can hit it with a rubber hammer.

 

8. The converter housing can be fully withdrawn and the housing gasket removed.
Note: The needle bearing of the idler gear shaft and the transmission input gear bearing will come away with the converter housing.

 

9. Withdraw the 'C' shaped thrust washer locating the converter output gear on the crankshaft, and slide off the backing ring, output gear and front thrust washer

 

Inspection & Overhaul - Converter Housing

If required, the idler gear shaft needle bearing in the converter housing can be renewed in a similar manner to that described for the idler gear bearing in the flywheel housing on manual transmission models previously.

 

The transmission input gear bearing can be renewed, if necessary, by removing the circlip and pressing the bearing from the housing.

 

Install the new bearing and secure with the circlip.

 

Also check that the converter housing bush has not come loose in its housing.

 

If worn or damaged, the output gear oil seal in the converter housing can be renewed as detailed under the appropriate heading previously.

 

Installation

1. Ensure that the mating faces of the converter housing, cylinder block and transmission casing are clean and free from old gasket material.

 

2. If the idler gear or idler gear thrust washers have been changed, it will be necessary to check the idler gear endfloat and adjust if necessary, as detailed under the 'TRANSMISSION UNIT' heading later in this section.

 

3. If the converter output gear or thrust washers have been changed, the gear end-float should be checked and adjusted in a similar manner to that described for the crankshaft primary gear on manual models previously.

 

4. Fit the protector sleeve or tape over the converter output gear splines to protect the converter housing oil seal.

 

5. Two pilot bars, made up and screwed into the two bottom tapped holes in the cylinder, similar to those shown in , will help locate the converter housing in position during installation and take the weight off the converter output gear oil seal.

 

6. Ensure the transmission input gear shims and the idler gear thrust washer are correctly in position on their respective gear shafts.

 

7. Position a new housing gasket on the engine/transmission face.

 

8. Lubricate the converter housing oil seal and fit the converter housing into position, connecting the converter oil feed pipe to the housing. Ensure that the oil feed pipe and the nylon pipe assembly at the valve block are aligned, then push the housing fully home.

 

9. Secure the housing in position with the retaining nuts and bolts. Note that those with the LJNC (coarse) threads secure the housing to the transmission casing, while those threaded UNF (fine) screw into the cylinder block.

 

10. Refit the washer and self-locking nut to the transmission input shaft and tighten to 70 lb ft (9.7 kg m) while again holding the converter output gear from turning.

 

11. Refit the selector linkage bell crank lever and reconnect it to the transverse rod.

 

12. Refit the low pressure valve to the lower face of the converter housing, using a new gasket.

 

13. Finally, refit the torque converter noting the points given previously.

 

Source: http://www.reizendemoke.be/techniek/manual/engine/18.htm